Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House Mesa, AZ 85202 Menu
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“A good Lanzhou beef noodle soup should have a strong, clarified beef broth,” explains Clarissa Wei, an American journalist based in Hong Kong. “The noodles are pulled to order, uniform, and chewy.” There are even vocational schools in Lanzhou devoted solely to teaching noodle pulling, according to Wei. Whereas Taiwanese niu rou mian is celebrated for its dark, almost murky broth, the Lanzhou style more closely resembles Vietnamese pho.
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Whether one prefers thin or thick, round or flat, there is a noodle for every taste when it comes to Lanzhou beef noodle soup. Nan Zhou specializes in hand-pulled noodles, and that’s exactly what you should be ordering here. The spicy beef soup is the best - it comes in a salty broth, topped with cilantro, radish, and pickled greens.
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First, though, there was the matter of choosing which of the nine variations of lamian — hand-pulled wheat noodles — I wanted. There didn’t seem to be wrong choices in this category. Options ranged from angel hair to regular, thick, flat, prisma (a twisted variety) and wide.
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As Wei notes, the backbone of every bowl is the broth, patiently overseen and tenderly simmered for the better part of a day. “We use a combination of beef and chicken bones, along with 28 herbs and spices including white pepper, star anise, black cardamom, and cloves,” says Yuan from Lan Noodle. The result is a clear broth with a gentle medicinal hum that comes through at first slurp.
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If you want something else besides noodles, you should also try the scallion pancakes or coconut chicken dumplings. You should also know that they’re cash-only, but recently started accepting Venmo payments. “It looks easy to make, but it’s really hard to maintain the same shape all around,” explains Yuan. If you see two or three thicknesses, it’s not good.
First there is Lan Noodle, which arrived in the summer of 2019, followed closely by 1919 Lanzhou Beef Noodle, which opened in the fall. Both are dedicated to sharing this regional dish with discerning Angelenos. Not to be outdone, the masters at Lan Noodle can pull nine different shapes, including one that is “thick, chewy, and not widely accepted outside Lanzhou,” says Yuan. Lan’s chef will only make this unwieldy noodle upon request.
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I watched the cook quickly stretch the dough for my noodles behind glass; my meal was in front of me less than five minutes later. Their wider counterparts were frillier and toothier, and, though they’re less orthodox, I preferred them. ” asked the server at 1919 Lanzhou Beef Noodle in Arcadia.
It was the final question to my requests for two noodle soups, and the tone in her voice made it more of a statement than an inquiry. And then there are the noodles, hand-pulled to exact specifications with every order. The masterful noodle pullers at Lan Noodle and 1919 Lanzhou Beef Noodle work behind glass, welcoming curious eyes and camera phones to witness their craft. It’s not just a showy stunt or Instagram bait, though — made-to-order noodles are a point of pride, and the Langzhou tradition.
Regular for the soup with sliced beef shank, please, and wide for the soup with melting hunks of braised beef shoulder and greens. To serve, every bowl is garnished with tender slices of beef, slivers of daikon radish, chile oil to taste, and a confetti of scallions and cilantro. Every steaming serving is a vividly colorful feast for the eyes.
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